See For Yourself
This interview video with our director, Yoshiaki Konaka, provides a good look at the tools, techniques and ideas that go into all Once Piece of Rock products.
Fabric
Our original 13.5 oz denim fabric is woven by the revered old-style looms of Okayama Prefecture’s denim mill.
Our products reflect the wisdom and quality of Kojima, Okayama, the world renowned denim town, as well as the passion and technique of Conners Sewing Factory, devoted to the classic processes of making jeans. With meticulous care, we developed the exact color fading and texture of XX fabric that we’re after. The Original line embodies attention to detail even down to the same yarn dyeing and number of picks and ends as were used in the early vintage golden era.
The union of two opposing elements converging with one unique perspective – this is the One Piece of Rock vision. The spirit of American good ol’ days renewed with a contemporary eye. By weaving together a creation of vintage style and contemporary craft, a unique story is also woven into each hand-sewn product that find its way to our customers.
WWII Denim
The wartime production restrictions of WWII also impacted textiles, including 13.5 oz denim, which was born as a result, despite many other textiles opting for lighter materials to comply. However, instability within production environments resulted in inconsistent quality such as blemishes and uneven texture and fabric tension. This rare and short-lived denim fabric is a distinct reflection of the era. A more intense dye and inconsistent weave quality were the trademarks of this fabric. We have recreated this material with the help of Japan’s modern manufacturing techniques.
47 Denim
When production restrictions were lifted after the war, 13.5 oz denim became the standard for achieving the desired fabric strength. As stability returned to production systems, the fabric exhibited more consistent quality and a gradually improving level of perfection. This denim is characterized by a deeper indigo dye and a finer look and feel than WWII Denim.
Thread
We focus on every detail, and threads are no exception.
Observing vintage pieces, we found types of yarn counts that are no longer in production, but we wouldn’t let this stop us from reproducing an identical thread for our products. Our yarn of choice is called “uneven yarn” for its inconsistent yarn counts, and to get the exact texture we’re after, we use a yarn made in the USA. In some cases, we even self-dye these yarns with consideration to the degree of color fading.
Buttons & Rivets
Buttons and rivets are also custom originals.
We never compromise on even the smallest detail. If our ideal part is not available, we make it ourselves. This level of detail and dedication defines the core of our craftsmanship. We recreate true vintage character using various materials such as iron, plated copper and zinc. The passion for pure authenticity lives in such details.
Sewing Machines
Original early vintage sewing machines at Conners Sewing Factory play a vital integral role in the creation of The Original.
However, coming to obtain these machines was no simple task. Guided primarily by old literature, we sought out many early machines from around world, tuning, repairing, and readying them for production. Our collection now encompasses basically every machine from the era, with varying models representing the styles and periods from the 1900’s to 1940’s. Each process has its own optimal machine. The appropriate machine and stitching technique are arranged for each individual process, some of which require very difficult techniques. However there is no room for compromise in our quest for truly authentic original pieces.
Sewing Technique
Our pieces from The Original line are more than the sum of their material parts.
The final key element of production is our faithful adherence to technique. By first observing numerous early vintage jeans, we have developed techniques which use the same needle sizes, threading tension, and needle spacing. In addition, freehand and non-iron techniques are integral to our production, and we believe these are practices worth preserving and passing down to future generations as they rapidly dwindle in favor of techniques focused on streamlining and efficiency. These handcrafting techniques allow the spirit of the craftsman to live and shine in the product, reflecting their true one-of-a-kind quality.